Grumps
Fresher - wearing in my keyboard
It was like that when I found it....
Posts: 75
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Post by Grumps on Sept 22, 2011 11:42:59 GMT
Hi Guys
Anyone know if it's possible to convert an auto-choke 32/36 DGAV weber to manual choke?
Can I just bypass the hot water supply to the carb with a piece of 15mm copper pipe and remove the choke plates?
I'm still getting serious overheating problems and I don't think the hot water supply to the carb is helping!
The engine is maintaining the temperature properly when i drive but sitting in traffic with the fan running, the carb/fuel bowl starts to heat up, making the fuel hot, making the revs rise A LOT at idle and this causes the engine temperature to spiral out of control until i get moving again. It sorts itself out when I get moving but then runs really rough, spluttering and dying when i press the accelerator until i flow enough fresh fuel into the carb to cool it down. I have added a thin aluminium heat sink under the carb where it meets the manifold to disperse some of the heat soaking up from the inlet manifold and that has helped but not by much.
Thanks George (Grumps)
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Post by Gadget on Sept 22, 2011 16:05:09 GMT
Google will show conversion kits. Why not buy my manifold and twin 40 DCOE's jetted for a 2.1 Pinto with 285 cam and sort it?
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eaa53 (aka JC)
Graduate - knows where all the keys are on the keyboard
Light the blue touch paper 'SC' primed and ready to go
Posts: 237
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Post by eaa53 (aka JC) on Sept 22, 2011 18:57:12 GMT
I agree, throw the twin choke at eBay, Brick had a set up for a Pinto unless he has sold them on now.
Strongly recommend a rolling road set up at Cullompton to set the combustion up properly once the carbs are disturbed.
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Post by "The Advanced Driver" on Sept 22, 2011 22:02:40 GMT
Hi George, re overheating in traffic.assuming this is a pinto, Checked the thermostat is working? is the radiator fitted with a electric fan or the ford thermo / visco type which freewheels when below temp? If ford viscose type is it locking up when hot? Is the rad header or expantion tank if fitted, higher than the thermostat housing in the cylinderhead?Can cause full or partial air lock. Has the heater if removed been replaced with a bypass hose? Is the cooling fan close to the rad? Has the air from the fan got a free passage to exit the engine compartment?
Cheers John
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Grumps
Fresher - wearing in my keyboard
It was like that when I found it....
Posts: 75
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Post by Grumps on Sept 23, 2011 8:33:03 GMT
Hi George, re overheating in traffic.assuming this is a pinto, Checked the thermostat is working? is the radiator fitted with a electric fan or the ford thermo / visco type which freewheels when below temp? If ford viscose type is it locking up when hot? Is the rad header or expantion tank if fitted, higher than the thermostat housing in the cylinderhead?Can cause full or partial air lock. Has the heater if removed been replaced with a bypass hose? Is the cooling fan close to the rad? Has the air from the fan got a free passage to exit the engine compartment? Cheers John Sorry should have said, it's a 1700 crossflow from a '78 Escort MKII. Got a haynes manual but that doesn't help much. Thermostat is missing, i took it out to maximise flow, I figured that even with the thermostat hot/open, having no thermostat allows more water through as it's a bigger hole and as it's a little polo rad, overcooling is not going to happen. There is no heater, I think the hoses from the heater are looped back through the engine (I think it's the hose that feeds the auto choke.) The expansion tank is higher than the engine, and is full. There's good flow of water round the engine, if I let the fan run for a bit after switching off, then start the engine the temperature gauge drops fast so it's definitely circulating properly on the waterpump. The electric fan (12" hi-flow pusher type) is fixed flush to the front of the rad, and is controlled by a switch in the top hose near the thermostat housing. There are now two large stainless steel vents in the bonnet to let the heat out. No crank-driven fan. (no room!) I have seen the conversion kits on Google/fleabay but just wanted to know if I could do away with the choke plates and water supply altogether as it doesn't seem to need it. That would also be free and I'm a bit reluctant to shell out if it doesn't fix the problem!! I guess my question, simplified, is if I remove the water supply from the carb and remove the choke plates (or wire them permanently open), the carb will "think" that it's cold all the time, so, are there extra jets that would open when the carb thinks it's time for choke, causing an issue of running too rich if it thinks it's too cold (or is it not that clever!). Engin warms up quite fast, and I am a fair weather fan, so cold / choked / winter driving is not a problem. Thanks George
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Post by "The Advanced Driver" on Sept 23, 2011 16:57:26 GMT
Most carbs are choked by a strangeler flap which reduces the amount of air flow to the engine thus creating a richer mixture when needed. I would leave the water works as they are there is probably a feed from the inlet manifold to consider too. Try disconecting the strangeler flaps so that you can be certain as to what is causing the problem. The flaps are attached to the spindle with two screws per flap, why not remove the flaps alltogether, but dont drop the tiny screws into the engine or you will have more work. www.racetep.com/weber/32_36DGV.pdfEngines heating up quickly and running hot can be caused by late ignition timing or weak fuel mixture among other things. Good luck sorting this one out. John
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Grumps
Fresher - wearing in my keyboard
It was like that when I found it....
Posts: 75
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Post by Grumps on Sept 29, 2011 8:08:24 GMT
Took the plunge, bypassed the auto choke water supply with a piece of copper pipe, removed the choke plates and it seems to have worked. Didn't need the choke to start it. No out-of-control idle, seemed to hold at 95 degrees so far so good. Ran well, perhaps better than before but that may be psychological.... Fingers crossed!
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Post by brick69 on Sept 29, 2011 9:34:59 GMT
That's good to hear ;D just in time for the weekend sunshine.
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Grumps
Fresher - wearing in my keyboard
It was like that when I found it....
Posts: 75
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Post by Grumps on Dec 19, 2011 20:46:46 GMT
I agree, throw the twin choke at eBay, Brick had a set up for a Pinto unless he has sold them on now. Strongly recommend a rolling road set up at Cullompton to set the combustion up properly once the carbs are disturbed. I plan to get the car on a rolling road and get some one who knows what they are doing to set the carb up properly and match the jets to the engine. Does the place you mention at cullompton do that and have you any idea how much they may charge for doing it? Thanks, car's put to bed for the winter so it'll be april when I'll be looking to get this done. Cheers George
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eaa53 (aka JC)
Graduate - knows where all the keys are on the keyboard
Light the blue touch paper 'SC' primed and ready to go
Posts: 237
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Post by eaa53 (aka JC) on Dec 20, 2011 8:56:22 GMT
The company is called PowerCrazy.
Steve the proprietor is a local rally driver and also sets up other local rally drivers cars, Steve knows his mechanical carbs and I would, and have used him extensively.
What I like about Steve is he will do a jet exchange if he has them on stock rather then just sell you the new jets you need like other commercial tuning stations.
I have found that the job normally take 2-3 hours and first hour is charged at a higher rate than any following hours. The other thing I like is that Steve will talk you through what he is doing and explain what he is hearing and seeing and what that means to a working engine. You can learn a lot about your engine as the test happens and understanding the language of your engine for the next time it complains to you.
Not for me to second guess Steve's pricing strategy but I have never paid more then £100 for any visit yet.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- quote from another forum.. Also his prices are very very good. He does rolling road mapping at £50 for the first hour and £40 for every hour after that!! His number is 07979231317 --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Contact details mob: 07979 231317
powercrazy motorsport, units 8 warren farm, kentisbeare, cullompton, devon, EX15 2AU
He will get very busy just before the rally season starts so if you can trailer or trade plate down earlier than the spring you stand a better chance of getting fitted in.
Hope that helps.
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Grumps
Fresher - wearing in my keyboard
It was like that when I found it....
Posts: 75
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Post by Grumps on Dec 21, 2011 20:26:46 GMT
Thanks, that's a great help, I'll give him a call and get booked in. Much appreciated!
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paintman
Newbie - must post more!
Posts: 32
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Post by paintman on Jan 8, 2012 21:24:49 GMT
I converted my 2.0 Pinto from automatic (water) to manual choke a year ago. It had a Dgav fitted on the Hood and it was a bi*ch to start in the winter so i bought a conversion kit, blocking off the water pipes....a doddle. Best thing i done.....starts everytime and economical (not like 40's) Tony
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